Salicylic acid (BHA)
Pore-penetrating exfoliant: acne, blackheads and oil.
What the evidence says
The reference oil-soluble exfoliant for oily skin, well documented.
How to use it
Start 2–3 times a week (toner, serum or cleanser) and work up to daily if your skin tolerates it. Night or morning, but always with daytime sunscreen. At 0.5–2% it's suitable for ongoing use on oily skin.
What it pairs with
Pairs well with niacinamide (the classic oily-skin duo) and light hydrators. Avoid stacking it in the same session as AHAs or retinoids — alternate days to protect your barrier.
Frequently asked questions
Does BHA work on blackheads?
Yes — it's the reference active for them. Being oil-soluble, it dissolves into the pore's sebum and clears it from the inside — something no AHA can do. Blackheads take weeks to soften and clear: consistency, not force.
What is the "betaine salicylate" in Korean products?
A gentler derivative of salicylic acid, widely used in Korea due to regulatory limits on pure BHA. 4% betaine salicylate is roughly equivalent to 2% salicylic acid, with less irritation. It's the BHA you'll find in COSRX and many other K-beauty brands.
Can I use BHA every day?
Many oily skins tolerate it daily at 0.5–2%, especially in toner form. But if you notice tightness or flaking, cut back to 2–3 times a week: more exfoliation doesn't mean less acne, and a damaged barrier makes breakouts worse.